December 23, 2025 · 2:55 PM

Explore Congolese Cuisine at Furahi in Cleveland

We’re going to end the year on a high note: by acheiving a foodie goal that long eluded us. We first encountered Furahi: A Taste of Home, a Congolese food pop-up in Cleveland, when they were having an event at Mason’s Creamery, a local ice cream store (and sometimes ramen shop), several years ago. However, when we got to that Furahi pop-up, they were sold out! We were so disappointed. Furahi periodically had pop-ups throughout the years since then, but it never worked out for us to attend. So, we were delighted to hear that Furahi now has a semi-permanent home in the Ohio City Farm Stand in Cleveland, near the West Side Market (2304 Bridge Ave, Cleveland, OH 44113).

Photo of the Farm Store from the Ohio City Farm site

Furahi is the brainchild of Esther Ngemba, a chef and entrepreneur who was born in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, and later moved to Cleveland with her family (she is a John Carroll University graduate). Her specialties at Furahi are foods and handicrafts from the DRC. After hosting a series of pop-up around towns, she now offers dinners at the recently-reconstructed Ohio City Farm store and kitchen (official grand opening in 2026). The brand-new farm building is attached to Ohio City Farm, one of the largest urban farms in the country, which is worth a visit in itself. Furahi’s pre-packed juice and food are also available in the farm store if you are visiting outside of dinner hours. However, if you choose to stop by for her pop-up dinners you can either sit and enjoy a plated meal in the airy farmhouse or take your meal to go. We opted to pre-order our meal and eat in, and made a reservation to stop by anytime from 4-9 PM on a Saturday. When we were arrived we were greeted warmly by Esther and took our seats in the dining area.

We started off with the sambusas, African cousins of samosas, fried triangular dough wrappers with savory fillings. We got vegetarian, but there is also a meat version. They were delightful and crispy and came with both mild and hot dipping sauces. Other appetizers included fried plaintains and fried cassava. For mains, we got Sombe stew and Goat stew. Sombe is one of the classic dishes of Congolese cuisine, made with pounded cassava leaves, peanuts and palm oil. The goat stew was silky and savory and M particularly liked the addition of the homemade hot sauce. The dish was served alongside a healthy heaping of fufu – pounded cassava – a common accompaniment in Congolese cuisine and other West African cuisines. It serves the same purpose as rice/bread and is perfect for sopping up any sauces and stews. We were absolutely stuffed, but next time we will have to try some of the beignets for dessert.

Other delicious accompaniments to the dinner were the fresh pressed juices. We got the spicy mix of ginger and pineapple, other options included ginger and ginger/lemon. We may pick up a few more bottles of juice from the shop the next time we are in Ohio City. Keep an eye on Furahi’s social media and website for updates on the dinner popups, cooking classes, and other events. She also offers catering and private dining. The pop-up dinner experience was very pleasant and we enjoyed chatting with Esther and hearing about her and her culinary inspiration. We recommend everyone check it out!

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November 15, 2025 · 8:01 AM

Indulging in Yemeni Honeycomb Bread: Khaliat Nahal

One of the most exciting recent food developments in the Cleveland area is the plethora of new Yemeni cafes popping up in the city and suburbs. Apparently the growth of Yemeni cafes is a trend throughout the US, and not just in Northeast Ohio. Yemen is considered to be the home of the coffee trade, so it is perhaps unsurprising that the country boasts a vibrant cafe culture, which has also come to the US in recent years. Two new Yemeni cafes in the Cleveland Area include Shibam Coffee (26745 Brookpark Ext, North Olmsted, OH 44070) and Qawah House (25102 Brookpark Rd #146, North Olmsted, OH 44070). Both of these locations appear to be part of mini-chains with locations throughout the US.

The Honeycomb Bread from Shibam Coffee in North Olmsted, OH
The Honeycomb Bread from Shibam Coffee in North Olmsted, OH

The delicious and strong coffee and tea, elegant surroundings, and late operating hours are the main draws to these Yemeni cafes. However, another major attraction is a new-to-us dessert: “honeycomb” cake/bread, more properly known as Khaliat Nahal / Nahl. Khaliat Nahal (which literally means “bee’s hive/beehive” in Arabic) is a classic Yemeni dessert that seems to be on offer at all of these cafes, often alongside crepes, cookies, or milk cakes (another Middle Eastern specialty based on the Latin American tres leches cake). Khaliat Nahal is a leavened bread with a cream cheese filling, topped with honey and sesame and/or nigella seeds. It is formed from pull-apart pieces of dough shaped in a round honeycomb-like pattern (which reminds us of a more-organized monkey bread). There is something extremely visually satisfying about this geometric bread, and we like that you can sometimes customize how sweet you want it to by adding your own honey topping. If you are feeling ambitious you can even make your own honeycomb bread at home! Check out these recipes from Strawberry in the Desert and Every Little Crumb. For now, I think we will look forward to getting this sweet bread at our local Yemeni cafes as a special treat.

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October 2, 2025 · 2:39 PM

Unboxing Japan’s Spooky Treats: TokyoTreat Halloween Box

One of the best parts of the arrival of fall is the seasonal treats, particularly when it comes to Halloween. What is your favorite Halloween candy? We always loved picking out the chocolate pieces when going trick-or-treating, and we think our all-time favorite is probably Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups. Though there is nothing like an old classic, we always love to try new-to-us sweet treats, especially from around the world. So, we were like kids in a candy store when we were gifted the October TokyoTreat subscription snack box, packed to the brim with Japanese sweet and savory treats with a spooky Halloween theme. TokyoTreat is like the younger funkier cousin to SakuraCo (which we reviewed in July), providing an assortment of expertly curated Japanese snacks each month for subscribers. Each month also has a theme, and if you missed one you like, you can also purchase a one-off previously-released box. The Halloween box we received can be ordered until 10/15.

The box included a helpful pamphlet describing Halloween (a foreign import) and other spooky traditions in Japan including the homegrown historical Japanese supernatural spirits known as yokai. Since the packaging for the treats is mostly in Japanese, the booklet also helps you identify all of the treats inside (including listing any common allergens). One of the highlights of this month’s TokyoTreat box was the package of the seasonal apple pie KitKats. When we visited Japan in 2024, we enjoyed trying all of the delicious unique KitKat flavors that are unavailable in the US. Some standouts included red bean, matcha, and raspberry chocolate chip. We had never tried the apple pie flavor, and it tasted uncannily like the real thing! Each TokyoTreat box features a new KitKat flavor, and we look forward to seeing what we get in the future. Past KitKat flavors have included Mont Blanc and strawberry chocolate.

The treats are sourced from throughout Japan, and some were specifically Halloween themed. Of note, we had tried none of the Japanese snacks and candies before! Some of our favorite sweet treats from this month’s assortment included a tiny custard-filled sponge cake and a “chocolate baton” wafer with a meringue-like texture. Though not particularly spooky, we were also fans of the blueberry cheesecake bites, which were airy, flaky and not too sweet. Though there were only small samples of some of the treats, others were large enough to share (which definitely made M happy).

We do appreciate the inclusion of both savory and sweet treats in each TokyoTreat subscription box, since especially with the candy-forward Halloween theme, savory could have easily been overlooked. Of the savory treats, one of our favorites was the garlic and chili senbei rice crackers, which had a delightful crispy texture and satisfying amount of heat. Buttery animal crackers toed the line between savory and sweet, and we got a kick out of how each abstract animal was helpfully labeled. The box even included a spicy ramen pack that we are going to squirrel away for later. These were only a few of the snacks and treats in the box, but we don’t want to give every surprise away.

The Halloween TokyoTreat box is a great way to get into the spirit for Spooky Season. We really enjoyed the assortment of treats provided, and the diversity of unique flavors. If you are trying to decide between a TokyoTreat box and a SakuraCo box, you can’t really go wrong, though they are quite different. SakuraCo is more focused on featuring specific artisanal makers, and the TokyoTreat box is geared toward more fun, pop culture packaging, and off-the-wall flavors. So why not try both? You can try a single month, or a longer subscription (3, 6, or 12 months), or can give either option as a gift. Especially with the winter holidays around the corner, we look forward to seeing what treats are in store for next season!

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September 12, 2025 · 9:05 AM

Discover Authentic Egyptian Food at King Tut in Cleveland

Ever since we visited Egypt a few years ago, we have had a massive hankering for Egyptian food, even making it at home. Fortunately there is a sizable Egyptian community in Cleveland, which means there are yearly Egyptian cultural festivals with copious amounts of food, and even a delicious local Egyptian restaurant in King Tut (8801 Brecksville Road, Brecksville, OH). King Tut is a small restaurant primarily open for breakfast and lunch – with dinner hours on Friday and Saturday – which serves hearty street food favorites (the tagline of the restaurant is “Egyptian Street Food”). The owners Hadia and Nader Soliman are from Cairo and on one of our visits, Nader was happy to talk to us about everything on the menu, and his life in Egypt. We actually ate at King Tut twice in 2 weeks, which is quite unusual for us, since we like to try new places. In terms of our recent trips, our first visit in was with our adventurous foodie nephew, and when we told some of our friends about this trip, they wanted to visit the restaurant, too. Since we really enjoy King Tut we were happy to oblige.

The restaurant was doing a brisk takeout trade around lunchtime, though there are also a few dine-in tables. The decor includes many nods to ancient Egypt and also a prominent photo wall of famous Egyptians across time. King Tut’s curated menu consists of all day breakfast, wraps, entrees, and even some house-made desserts. In terms of breakfast foods, we were happy to see the typical breakfast dish of ful: mashed fava beans with onion, tomato, and tahini, served with a side of aish baladi (Egyptian flat bread). Ful is delightfully hearty and simple, and is filling enough to serve as a small main or side. We also got a delicious side of falafel, and other side dish options included heavily-spiced fries and a smoky and savory baba ghanoush dip.

In terms of more lunch-y items, of course, we had to order our favorite, koshary, which is a delicious, carb-heavy mix of pasta, chickpeas, rice, tomato sauce, and topped with fried onions. Koshary prepared in giant batches and doled out in small cups or bowls is a popular street food in Cairo, which is where we first enjoyed it. To finish your serving of koshary, you add your own vinegar and spicy sauce to taste. We have to say that this is definitely some of the best koshary we have had in the US. Among the offered wraps, our favorites included the grilled chicken and the beef shewarma. Our nephew particularly liked the beef hawawshy, spiced ground beef and onions flattened in pita bread, giving it the appearance of a pizza more than a wrap.

The desserts were also standouts: on offer were baklava and konafa. Our particular favorite was the konafa, which is a confection of an outer layer of crispy thin semolina pastry with a custard center, much harder to find in the US than baklava. The texture of the konafa is really interesting and delicious, a study in contrasts. The freshly-made mint lemonade was also a sleeper hit, alongside strong Turkish tea and Egyptian black tea for those looking for a caffeine fix. At this point, I think we have ordered almost everything on the menu except for the lentil soup, which is only available from October to April, so we will definitely have to go back to try it this fall. We definitely recommend King Tut for a taste of Cairo in Cleveland, and we have enjoyed every visit there. Not only are we fans, everyone we have brought here has also been very impressed.

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August 11, 2025 · 1:56 PM

A Must-Try: Birria at Birrieria Ocotlan in Chicago

We mourned the loss of Taqueria Chingon (though it seems that they now have a West Loop location), one of our favorite Mexican street food spots in Chicago. However, Chicago is still home to so much great Mexican food, that we simply had to direct our attention elsewhere to some of our other favorites. So, we started with birria. The Jalisciense dish birria has become extremely popular in the US, and I have even seen it offered outside of Mexican restaurants recently. Birria is a slow-simmered stew of beef, or traditionally goat, simmered in a spiced broth called consomé. Aromatics include ancho chiles, cinnamon, cumin, and oregano, among others (home cooks can even buy birria spice blends online).

One of our go-to Chicago birrierias is Birrieria Zaragoza. With a newer Uptown location in addition to their original Midway-area location, they are more accessible to a wider number of Chicagoans than ever before. However, we wanted to sample some other birria offering in the city (and there are many). We had previously heard of Birrieria Ocotlan (4007 E 106th St., Chicago), but we are rarely near its far south side location (there is a second location at 8726 S Commercial Ave.). However driving from Cleveland to Chicago, it is actually just off of I-90! We ended up there on a cold snowy afternoon, as you can see from the photo below.

We were also really pleased to see that Birrieria Octolan was also mentioned on the New York Times list of best things they ate in 2024. Ocotlan, named after the city in Jalisco, basically has only one thing on the menu: birria. This certainly makes ordering easy. You could order a small or large bowl of birria (either beef or goat) with consomé, which then included some tortilla chips on the side. You could order tortillas or salsa as extra sides. Also on offer were tacos with a choice of birria, beef tongue, or beef heart.

On the inside of the restaurant, there are only a few simple booths. They close somewhat early at 6 PM, so you will definitely want to plan ahead, or go for lunch. We each ordered a large plate of birria, which at $15 was only $1 more than a small size. Overall, this was one of the best bowls of birria we have ever had in Chicago. The flavors were complex and deep, and you could tell that they had been perfecting the recipe for the over fifty years they have been open. Birrieria Ocotlan is the epitome of a simple place that does only one thing really, really well. I think this may become one of our go-to locations for birria in the future.

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July 19, 2025 · 12:51 PM

SakuraCo Subscription Box Review: Authentic Japanese Snacks

It’s no secret that we are huge fans of Japanese food, an obsession stoked even further by our trip to Japan in summer 2024. Due to our love of Japanese food, I was particularly delighted that SakuraCo gifted me their August subscription box of Japanese foodie treats. SakuraCo is a monthly subscription service that sends you a curated box of Japanese snacks, based on a different theme each month. You can also buy one-off boxes or products if you don’t want to commit to an ongoing subscription. They also have a sister brand TokyoTreat which offers more pop culture and kawaii based food subscription boxes. I have previously purchased SakuraCo subscription boxes as presents for my foodie friends, and they have always been well-received.

This month’s SakuraCo box theme was Okinawa, the southernmost major island in Japan. I was thrilled to see this theme since Okinawa is one of the top places we would like to visit in the near future. We have a friend who lives there part of the year and we hope to visit him someday. It didn’t work to visit Okinawa on our 2024 trip, but he was previously generous enough to bring us some treats from Okinawa. Okinawa is known for its unique cuisine, its indigenous Ryukyuan culture, and its laid-back beachy atmosphere that sets it apart from other regions in Japan. On the blog we have previously covered Okinawan brown sugar, a special ingredient that found its way into several treats in the SakuraCo August box including in chocolate cookies, an almond mix, and deep-fried wheat snacks.

The SakuraCo box includes at least 20 sweet and savory treats from small-scale artisanal producers all over Japan, but with a focus on Okinawan producers or ingredients this month. SakuraCo boxes also include a piece of pottery, glass or tableware each month, serving as a lasting reminder long after the food has been consumed. This month’s box included a special piece of pottery from Bloom Ceramics in Gifu Prefecture. We received a small Mino Ware bowl in elegant, muted browns and blues, which we think would be perfect for dipping sauces.

One of our favorite parts of the SakuraCo box is the helpful booklet that describes each item and its producer, along with some information about the region’s culture and top sites. Not only does this guide help you identify the products, but it provides additional context on the included foods and their unique origin stories, which I love. One of the featured producers in this month’s box was a heritage dried pickled plum maker from Okinawa, Uema Kashiten. The included honey plum, known as Suppaiman, was truly one of the most intriguing bites in the box: sweet, salty, savory, acidic and juicy all in one.

The box was a treasure trove of unique Japanese snacks, none of which we had ever had before. Many of the snacks come in twos, which makes them really fun to share with a friend or partner (or to just have more for yourself). One of of the favorite items in this month’s box was the delicate Sanpin jasmine green tea from Higa Seicha in Okinawa (2 servings) which made the perfect accompaniment for our Japanese treats. On the sweet side, we really enjoyed the Beni Imo pie with Okinawan purple sweet potatoes from Bonbon Confectionery in Hokkaido and the Okinawa Almond Caramel Cookie from Nagatoya in Shizuoka. Though these manufactures were not from Okinawa, they featured key ingredients from the region: Okinawan salt, brown sugar, and sweet potato. On the savory side, we really enjoyed the Gorgonzola Nori Ten bites from Maruka Foods in Hiroshima, which were bursting with umami flavor.

We heartily enjoyed sampling the sweet and savory treats in this month’s box, and can’t wait to see what next month brings. As a result, our desire to go to Okinawa is stronger than ever! These Japanese snack boxes would make the perfect gift for the foodie in your life (or yourself). You can order the SakuraCo Okinawa box until August 20, 2025. Thanks again for the treats, SakuraCo!

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June 2, 2025 · 6:45 PM

Reviving Japan’s Tachibana Citrus: A Nara Cafe Experience

Nara, Japan is a particularly picturesque city, full of both historical and modern cafes. On our trip we stumbled upon Ocasi (5 Ganriincho, Nara, 630-8221, Japan), a small but atmospheric cafe that sold treats with rare citrus jams native to Japan, made in house. When we stepped into Ocasi we got the biggest surprise of all, a rare tachibana citrus tree growing in their tiny courtyard. We enjoyed the tachibana jam at Ocasi in a dorayaki (think mini pancake with a sweet filling) imprinted with the iconic deer of Nara. The intense and complex flavor reminded us of some of the bitter, sour oranges we have tasted in Italy. The unique citrus filling was completely delicious, and worked well paired with a sweeter treat. You could also buy tachibana jam to bring home, which we thought made a great souvenir for ourselves and foodie friends.

Tachibana is something of a sour citrus, and is small, with the appearance of a kumquat. It is one of only 2 citrus species purely native to Japan, and is considered to be threatened. Prior to our trip to Japan, we had never encountered it elsewhere. Nara is the center of the tachibana revival, and the citrus fruit has a long and storied history in the region, garnering mentions in historical poetry, and appearing on the 500 Yen coin. Though tachibana is mainly considered ornamental nowadays, revivalists like Kenji Jō of the Nara Tachibana Project are trying to raise interest and awareness in this now-rare species. Food companies in Japan are making inroads at commercialization, including tachibana in items ranging from chocolate to gin.

Do you want to help in the tachibana revival? It looks like you can even buy one of these heirloom plants online. Though little known outside of Japan, more esoteric Japanese citrus varieties like the tachibana and sudachi have recently gained attention from international media outlets like the New York Times. Yuzu for example, once considered rare and exotic outside of East Asia, is now much more commonly found in culinary dishes around the world. Today yuzu, tomorrow tachibana?

Citrus tachibana (ca. 1823 – 1829) via Wikimedia Commons.

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May 4, 2025 · 5:41 PM

A Norwegian Culinary Roadtrip: Norsk Nook in Wisconsin

Though Swedish cuisine was amply represented in Chicago, we had been on the look out for Norwegian food for a while. Fortunately, we were driving to “Up North” Minnesota for a dear friend’s wedding, so we were able to drive near the Norwegian food stalwart, the Norsk Nook in Wisconsin (2900 Pioneer Avenue, Rice Lake, WI). With Syttende Mai, Norway’s Constitution Day approaching on May 17, we thought it would be an appropriate time to recap our delicious visit. It is perhaps unsurprising that we had to drive to the heart of central Wisconsin to find Norwegian food, as this area, along with Minnesota in the Upper Midwest was the heart of Norwegian immigration to the US.

The original branch of Norsk Nook in Osseo, WI was founded by Helen Myhre in 1973, and the Norsk Nook empire has grown to 3 locations today. At Norsk Nook one of the signature treats on offer is pie, which is not necessarily a Norwegian classic, but certainly is a Midwestern one. The pies were available in a staggering variety of flavors, by the slice or a whole pie, both of which were enticingly displayed in a retro-looking pie case. We got apple/lingonberry and blueberry with a crumble topping, both of which we highly recommend. The crust was buttery and flaky, and the delicious filling was impeccably fresh. Though we did not try them, the sky-high meringue pies also looked particularly scrumptious, and these were only a few of the dozens of varieties available. The pies are also available to pre-order online and Norsk Nook has its own pie cookbook.

Alongside a super-full bakery case, Norsk Nook also boasts a dine-in section with a menu full of American classics alongside a few Norwegian specialties. In terms of Norwegian options, you can get Norwegian pancakes topped with blueberry, lingonberry, or strawberry, or try an order of potato pancakes. Also on offer are Norwegian lefse, thin crepes made from potatoes. You can pre-order lefse in store or online, or try them as wraps in the restaurant. If you want to go all out with the Norwegian flavor, you can get a lefse full of fried smelts, though chicken and roast beef are also available, among other options. We took both our lefse wraps and our pieces of pie on the road, but everything was still delicious

Attached to the bakery is a small store stocked with assorted Scandinavian specialties, and plenty of Norsk Nook branded swag (much of it with a pie theme). A unique option to bring home is the wild rice and cranberry bread, which also gives a culinary nod to the Indigenous heritage in the region. Definitely make a detour to stop at Norsk Nook on your next Midwest roadtrip, especially if you are a pie lover!

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April 15, 2025 · 3:47 PM

Sbrisolona: A Must-Try Italian Dessert from Lombardy

One of our essential tasks whenever we are visiting a new location is to sample some of their typical local sweets, known in Italy as dolci tipici. When we visited Lombardy, the Northern Italian region including Milan and Lake Como, we were exposed to an Italian cake that was very different than any other we had tried: Sbrisolona. The crumbly cake was make with almonds (not unusual for Italy) and cornmeal (a bit more unusual). Polenta – cooked ground cornmeal – is popular in the north of Italy, so I guess we shouldn’t be surprised that it found its way into some Northern Italian sweets as well. The true home of the sbrisolona is the city of Mantua / Mantova, where it has become an icon, later spreading past its borders, and across the region. In Lake Como, we sampled Sbrisolona for the first time, and we were intrigued by its crumbly, slightly sandy consistency, which was really different than any cake we had tried before (somewhat more akin to a streusel topping in bar/cake format). This is the perfect cake to eat for breakfast or with a cup of tea, as it is substantial and not too sweet. There is also a recipe for sbrisolona cookies in Dorie Greenspan’s Dorie’s Cookies cookbook. David Lebovitz and La Cucina Italiana also have good recipes for this super-simple cake.

Individual Sbrisolona for sale in Lombardy by VeganTraveller

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March 30, 2025 · 6:26 PM

Discover Authentic Georgian Cuisine in NYC at Chama Mama

When we lived in Chicago, we were lucky to have easy access to an authentic Georgian bakery with a huge oven in the center (RIP Argo Bakery). When we moved, of course, we lost access to those lovely Georgian breads. So, we were delighted when several friends independently suggested we try out a Georgian restaurant while we were visiting NYC, Chama Mama. There are a few locations of Chama Mama, and we visited the one on the Upper West Side (373 Amsterdam Ave). The restaurant had a modern, buzzy vibe and boasted the Georgian alphabet on the wall in neon. Bread is the heart of Georgian cuisine, so we were so glad to see the restaurant anchored by an amazing oven, called a Tone, analogous to a Tandoor oven.

Unsurprisingly, the menu highlighted bread at every turn. Our group started out with the “Taste of Georgia” platter, which included a series of walnut and chopped vegetable based dips called Pkhali: carrot, spinach, eggplant, red kidney bean, and Georgian leafy greens (ekala). Accompanying the pkhali were small rolls that were hot out of the oven, and smoked Georgian cheese. The pkhali were simply delightful, with complex flavors and a richness from the walnuts, which somewhat reminded us of Muhammara (Roasted Red Pepper Dip).

The mains were also bread-focused, including one of the most symbolic dishes of Georgian cuisine, the boat-like Khachapuri, topped with an egg. However, we learned that this style with the egg on top is typical of the Adjara region, and is only one of many regional variations. Chama Mama had other regional Khachapuri versions on offer, including the closed Calzone-like version from the Imereti region. Another classic main course was a tray of Khinkali dumplings (beef/pork, lamb, or mushroom), available either steamed or pan-fried. As part of the lunch special, we sampled small versions of the puri gulani (beef/pork, beans, or cheese) filled puff pastry, along with a small side salad. The bread was light and flaky, and not oily at all, despite the somewhat heavy filling, a real feat.

Chama Mama also offered an extensive list of Georgian wines, and chacha, a grape-based spirit. For other tastes, the restaurant concocted a series of nice mocktails, which our group appreciated, particularly the Figgin Fresh, composed of fig syrup, Earl Grey tea, and lemon juice. Chama Mama was a perfect place to visit after an afternoon at the American Museum of Natural History. Also, importantly for our group that day, Chama Mama is a great place to bring vegetarians, with many creative options. There is also a nice outdoor seating area for nicer weather (certainly not true in February). We can’t wait to go back and try more fresh-from-the-oven bread!

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February 3, 2025 · 8:32 AM

A Tale of Two Nougats: Torrone and Gaz

I love nothing more than discovering similar dishes from disparate locations. When we were visiting some new foodie friends, we brought along box of Italian torrone morbido – soft almond nougat – to contribute to dessert. Torrone is one of our favorite winter holiday treats, and is an especially good host gift as it is typically both gluten and dairy free. When our gracious hosts tried the torrone they instantly drew a parallel with gaz, the confectionery specialty of the Isfahan region of Iran. In fact, they were kind enough to share some special gaz brought directly from Iran. We heartily appreciated them delving into their limited supply in the name of food culture research!

La Florentine’s Italian torrone mobido (soft torrone)

We instantly recognized the parallels between the two confections. Both were soft nougats made with egg whites, sugar, and whole nuts, cut into small rectangles. For torrone, the type of nuts used depends on the region (ours was almond), while gaz is typically made with pistachios. In terms of predominant flavor, gaz is also tinged with rosewater and Tamarisk tree sap, while Italian torrone flavors may include citrus or vanilla. The method for preparing both nougats is very similar, and if you are ambitious you can make it yourself (recipes for torrone and gaz here). Both are also commercially available, our go-to torrone, available in many US Italian markets is La Florentine (and we recently just learned the story behind their packaging design). Eataly also has a wide variety of torrone. You can order many varieties of gaz online at Persian Basket. However, to get the best versions you will probably have to visit the respective countries of origin.

Gaz presented by our hosts’ adorable son.

Torrone can also be found in a very similar format in Spain, where it is called turrón. The similarities between turrón/torrone and gaz are not coincidental. Though its exact creation story is lost to time, it is speculated that one possible origin for Mediterranean European nougats is through the adaptation of Middle Eastern nougats as they entered Southern Spain or Sicily through cross-cultural exchange. Munching on our Persian and Italian treats, we were grateful for new friendships and cross-cultural culinary connections.

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January 31, 2025 · 8:46 AM

An epic quest for the national dish of Vanuatu: Laplap

Dear ETW readers, we just hit a milestone: country 150! Our 150th country is Vanuatu, which we recently visited with two friends, Aaron and Philip. Little known as a tourist destination for Americans, we all found the South Pacific island nation of Vanuatu to be an unexpected delight. According to our research, the food of Vanuatu is near-impossible to find outside of the country itself, so we suspect the only way to eat its cuisine is to befriend some cooks from Vanuatu or to visit the country itself! Vanuatuan cuisine is a mixture of Melanesian, French, and British influences, reflecting the diverse inhabitants and colonial history of this island nation. Thanks to French influence, today you can even get a great croissant in Port Vila!

However, the holy grail we were seeking was the national dish of Vanuatu: Laplap. Laplap is a mixture of mashed cassava, taro, and yam cooked in banana leaves with coconut milk. Laplap is traditionally cooked in an underground earthen oven (called an umu), and takes hours to prepare and bake. As such, it is mostly now served on only on Sundays, holidays, and special occasions. We scoured restaurants around the capitol city of Port Vila, but none were serving Laplap. Normally, you can find Laplap at the Central Market, however, that had been closed since the recent December 2024 earthquake that hit the Central Business District hard. Fortunately, when we visited in January, the country was well on the road to recovery, and we were urged by our tour company, Vanuatu Ecotours to still come visit, as the country’s economy heavily relies on tourism.

While traveling with Vanuatu Ecotours, we let our tour guide Roy know that we were seeking Laplap, which we had previously contacted the company about. However, logistical issues were making it seem that the Laplap might not actually be possible to acquire. At the 11th hour, our traveling buddy Aaron took special pains to make sure our Laplap dreams were realized through an alternative plan. Thanks to Aaron’s efforts, Roy made absolutely sure that our group got our desired Laplap before our time in Vanuatu ended. He contacted a local cook Eillen in Port Vila, who prepared it for us from scratch (and was paid for her efforts). She was so kind and lovely, she made 2 giant servings of Laplap, one for Roy and one for the 4 of us. She couldn’t have been nicer, and we are forever grateful for her efforts.

The Laplap was wrapped carefully in banana leaves and aluminum foil, and delivered to us in a neat package. We ran into a bit of a conundrum, as we had no where to eat, and had some time to kill before our flight out of Port Vila. So, as a result, we actually ate the Laplap in the international airport terminal! We bought some drinks with the last of our local currency at the coffee shop and the kind staff allowed us to eat at their tables. So, with an assortment of coffees and teas, we carefully unwrapped our Laplap and dug in. We were impressed by all of the layered flavors and the significant amount of work that surely went into preparing this dish. The Laplap was cooked with bone-in chicken, which was tender and flavorsome. The mashed root vegetables were formed into cakes, and were covered with island cabbage leaves (apparently an Efate island touch) and coconut milk, interspersed with the chicken. All of the flavors melded together beautifully, and the dish was more than the sum of its parts. So, our final memory of Vanuatu was enjoying its fabulous national dish with friends. It doesn’t get much better than that in the ETW universe!

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December 25, 2024 · 3:37 PM

Marzipanschwein or Glücksschwein for good luck in the new year

Good luck marzipan pigs

With 2025 on the horizon, we are looking toward the new year ahead, and toward the delicious treats to ring in the new year. Marzipan pigs are commonly given as gifts for good luck in Germany for New Years, called Marzipanschwein or Glücksschwein. So why pigs? In German, the phrase “Schwein gehabt” (literally “having a pig”) means being lucky, having connotations of prosperity and largesse by owning a pig in more pastoral times. This also manifets itself in the popularity of pig figurines and piggy banks! These marzipan pigs remind me a bit of the frutta martorana made for All Saint’s Day in Sicily, or the Easter marzipan lambs. If you are really ambitious, you can even make your own marzipan pigs. Happy new year!

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October 25, 2024 · 12:01 PM

Oaxacan Pan de Muerto in Los Angeles

In Chicago, we frequently enjoyed pan de muerto, traditional Mexican bread for Dia de los Muertos, from one of the many local panaderias. In the US, the pan de muerto we bought was usually a sweet brioche roll with two crossed “bones” on the top. Since pan de muerto is hard to find in Cleveland, we have previously made our own using the Chicano Eats recipe, which came out great. On a recent trip to Los Angeles in late October, we knew we wanted to find some pan de muerto in person. During our LA research, we came across some places specializing in regional Oaxacan pan de muerto, which is a bit different than what we are used to. These breads are also lightly sweetened, but are covered with sesame seeds, and may take the form of larger doll shapes or rounds. They also come with colorful, adorable miniature faces made from hardened masa and painted in vibrant hues. It is relatively hard to find recipes in English for this Oaxacan-style bread, but you can look at a photo story from Vogue Mexico.

We found this particular style of pan de muerto at two different bakeries we visited. First, at Venice Bakery (1529 S Crenshaw Blvd, Los Angeles, CA), there were variations of the Oaxacan pan de muerto in many different sizes, some quite elaborately decorated. In addition to a large bakery section, Venice also houses a store with some dry goods and a restaurant. Corredor Oaxaqueño Market (4475 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA) also had the same small rolls for sale (see above). You could even buy the small masa faces that go in them, alongside a few other baked goods, and an assortment of other implements for your ofrenda. We also sampled a new-to-us drink there, tejate (see below), made from toasted masa, flavored with coconut. Absolutely delicious! Other Oaxacan bakeries in LA also offer the regional form of day of the dead bread, and we look forward to trying more variations in the future.

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October 13, 2024 · 8:34 PM

The Ultimate Tonkatsu Experience in Osaka

When we arrived in Osaka after a long Shinkansen ride, we were famished! Our hotel was a bit off the beaten path, we had to do a little searching for a possible places for a quick bite. One of the foods we were craving at the moment was tonkatsu – crispy fried pork cutlets – so we did a quick Google Maps search for any nearby haunts. It turns out that we were within a short walk of an amazing, Michelin Bib Gourmand-recognized tonkatsu restaurant: Tonkatsu Daiki (1-6-2 Higashishinsaibashi, Chuo-ku, Osaka, 542-0083, Japan).

We showed up at a somewhat early time for dinner – about 5:45 PM – and were seated at the counter right away. As soon as we sat down, a line began to form outside, which grew ever-larger as we continued to wait for and enjoy our meal. The restaurant itself was extremely tiny with a counter that seated 4, and only a few additional tables (note there are no kids allowed). The main options on the menu were several varieties of tonkatsu with different cuts of pork (though fried shrimp also appeared to be a popular option). M got the classic and L got the leaner pork tenderloin. If you wanted something a bit richer, there were tonkatsu plates with melted cheese, Japanese curry, and even an omelette. The restaurant is cash only, and lunch portions are a bit cheaper than dinner, though you will likely not pay more than 3,000 yen at any time.

Sitting at the counter, we peered intently into the kitchen as the chef prepared everyone’s meals right in front of us, taking extreme care with each step. There was a bit of a wait, but the end result was worth it. The pork was tender and juicy, and you could tell it was of the highest quality. There was absolutely no grease coming from the fried coating – this was the lightest-feeling fried food we had ever had. Alongside the tonkatsu were a few dipping sauces, including spicy mustard and classic tonkatsu BBQ-style sauce, and some shredded cabbage. This was absolutely the best tonkatsu we have ever had, and definitely some of the best pork of any kind.

We chatted a bit with the chef, who knew some English, and he was very friendly, and humbly accepted our heapings of praise. Somehow, we lucked out with our timing, so we would recommend that you also go towards the beginning of either the lunch or dinner service (they are open 11am-2:30pm and 5:30pm-9:30pm, Closed Sunday). However, we would have definitely waited in line to experience this Tonkatsu again!

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September 4, 2024 · 10:57 AM

Experience Togolese Flavors at Mé Lon Togo in Rockland, Maine

One of the last places you might expect to find a restaurant with cuisine from the small west African nation of Togo is in coastal Maine, but sure enough, that is where you will find Mé Lon Togo (10 Leland Street, Rockland, Maine). The restaurant – whose name translates to “I Love Togo” – is run by a percussionist from Togo who teaches music at Colby College (roughly 1.5 hours away), Jordan Benissan, explaining its somewhat perplexing location. Mé Lon Togo restaurant is set up in an old colonial house, and the restaurant fits neatly into the warren of rooms on the first floor. While we were there, there was even live musical entertainment, contributing to the warm atmosphere within.

Mé Lon Togo offers only a prix fixe menu ($40 per person) for dinner on Thursday through Sunday. However, this format is not limiting. When we visited, there were a staggering amount of main course options, spanning Togolese cuisine; as well as French dishes (showing the French influence on Tologese cuisine and language) like Duck de Provence, Coq au Vin and Beef Bourguignon; and selections from other parts of Africa: a Moroccan chicken tajine and Ghanaian/Nigerian Jollof Rice. The primary Togolese dishes on the menu are designated by the name Dessi: Fetri Dessi, Deku Dessi, Gusi Dessi (similar to Egusi stew, made with melon seeds), and Azi Dessi. There are options for all tastes, including a vegan option in the signature Mi Lon Togo stew with mushrooms, plantains, and eggplant. The restaurant also features a bar with a range of signature cocktails, beer, and even tea.

For appetizers, there were 2 options on the prix fixe menu when we visited: Dje te & Amada, a sweet potato and plantain dish with a tomato, onion and apple cider vinegar sauce, and gari fotu, manioc grits with egg and shrimp in a tomato sauce. You also got a small garden salad with each meal. For mains, we ordered the Azi Dessi and the Deku Dessi. The Azi Dessi was chicken in a peanut and tomato sauce, reminiscent of some of the other West African peanut stews we have had in the past, with notes of garlic, ginger, and a peppery kick. The Deku Dessi was your choice of protein (beef/chicken/eggplant) in a red palm oil sauce with West African spices. For dessert, the day’s option was tapioca pudding with a subtle lemongrass broth and your choice of vanilla or chocolate ice cream. The Azi Dessi was a particular standout, and we scrambled to sop up every morsel of the comforting peanut sauce. Each of these dishes was delicious, and we admired the way the chef let all of the individual flavors shine, without being overpowering.

The meal unfolded at a leisurely pace, and the portions sizes were good, but not overwhelming, which really allowed you to sample each course. Perhaps the most important secret ingredient contributing to the Mé Lon Togo experience was the atmosphere. The restaurant’s setting in a historic home only amplified the convivial family atmosphere, supported by friendly servers and staff. Everyone was talking and laughing like old friends, and you can tell that many people dining that night were restaurant regulars. We highly recommend Mé Lon Togo for those looking to sample West African cuisine for the first time, or those tiring a bit of traditional seafood options in New England, they will surely welcome you with open arms!

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August 15, 2024 · 3:58 PM

Tortello Pastificio: Authentic Fresh Pasta in Chicago

August 15 is Ferragosto, the end-of-summer holiday in Italy, so we decided we would write about one of our favorite Italian places in Chicago, Tortello Pastificio (1746 W Division St, Chicago, IL 60622). Tortello is known for its fresh pasta, and there is often a sfoglino/a (pastamaker) hard at work in the front window, making the latest pastas of the day. One half husband-and-wife of the ownership team, Dario Monni is from Venice, and the other, Jill Gray, is a Chicagoan and marketing executive.

Tortello is a combination of a counter-service restaurant and a takeout pasta shop. If you are in the mood to cook at home, you can buy ready-made fresh pasta by the pound, and a variety of accompanying sauces. The pasta – made with either semolina and water, or flour and egg – is uniformly excellent, and made with the finest quality ingredients. The ready made sauces are also quite good (try the cacio e pepe), and sold either individually or as part of a meal kit. For fresh pasta to go, there is spaghetti, of course, alongside bucatini and rigatoni, but also some harder-to-find in the US varieties like corzetti (coin-shaped pasta from Liguria) and trottole (a spiral pasta from Puglia). There is also a small grocery section up front where you can get some fine Italian goods including balsamic vinegar, Calabrian chilis, and even colatura di alici, a fish sauce descended from the ancient Roman dish garum.

If you would like to eat in, there is also a small amount of tables with counter service, and outside tables when the weather is nice. The pastas on offer rotate, but we have had a good selection across several visits, and have greatly enjoyed everything we have tried. One of our favorites is the cacio e pepe, a classic Roman dish which we are quite picky about (above)! The pesto cavatelli is a standout, as were the signature burrata tortelli, topped with a simple sauce of butter, sage and hazelnuts. There are other dishes available, including some luscious focaccia (either plain or topped with ricotta and honey) and fennel and orange Sicilian salad (below). For those with a sweet tooth, the tiramisu is also sublime.

Tortello is on a busy stretch of Division Street, and has already made a mark on the Chicago food scene, offering pasta-making classes, and holding special Italian food festivals, known as sagre. Tortello has received many accolades, including a Michelin Bib Gourmand, and even garnering an appearance in the hit television show, The Bear. We think the positive press is definitely deserved. If you are looking for some of the best fresh pasta in Chicago, definitely make a beeline for Tortello.

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July 31, 2024 · 10:10 PM

Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory: A Ghibli-Inspired Delight in Tokyo

We recently returned from a trip to Japan, and our heads are still spinning from thinking about all the delicious food we ate while there. Watch this space for more Japan travel food content, but in the meantime, here is a taste of what is to come. First up on our trip recap is a place we have had on our “must-visit” list for years, Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory (2 Chome-7-5 Kichijoji Minamicho, Musashino, Tokyo 180-0003, Japan). The signature cream puffs are made in the shape of the character Totoro (star of the 1988 animated film My Neighbor Totoro), one of the famous mythical creatures from the mind of Hayao Miyazaki and Studio Ghibli. Shirohige’s is owned by Miyazaki’s sister-in-law, and is actually authorized to manufacture cream puffs in this special shape.

The cream puffs come in one size and a variety of flavors: standard flavors custard and chocolate (600 yen apiece), and more rotating seasonal flavors including matcha, strawberry, chestnut and mango (640 yen), each indicated by a different hat or decoration. Plan My Japan has a list of the seasonal flavors for each month, ours were strawberry and matcha in June. We heard rumors of long lines, but when we arrived just before opening at 11 AM on a weekday there were only a few people ahead of us. In addition to the cream puffs, you can buy other small souvenirs or even boxed shortbread cookies in the shape of the smallest (chibi) Totoro, which made the perfect gift from friends and family at home. Be aware that the Kichijoji store itself is quite tiny, fitting only 2 or 3 at a time, and at this location there is no seating. There is another Shirohige location in the Tokyo area that has more seating, if that is a deal breaker (5 Chome-3-1 Daita, Setagaya City, Tokyo 155-0033, Japan). However, the Kichijoji store is closer to the Ghibli Museum, making it a natural stop on a Ghibli-filled day (which is what we did).

Even though it is considered a bit declasse to do so in Japan, we just ate our cream puffs right in front of the shop. Now, onto the cream puffs themselves… even the pickiest among us devoured them! The filling was generous and the pastry was fresh and crisp, and not soggy at all. The matcha and chocolate fillings were particular favorites. We highly recommended Shirohige’s for fans of Studio Ghibli and good pastry alike. Very rarely does a place that has earned Instagram fame due to its aesthetic creations live up to the hype. Fortunately, Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory does just that.

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May 6, 2024 · 10:02 AM

The Best Cuban Sandwiches in Miami at Sanguich

Continuing on our Cuban theme, today we are going to talk about our favorite Cubano / Cuban sandwich. There is some controversy as to where the Cubano sandwich originated, though it is not in Cuba, despite the name. Currently, the disputed home of the Cubano is likely either Key West or Tampa, FL. The typical composition of a Cuban sandwich is roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, mustard, and pickles on Cuban Bread. Despite murkiness around its origins, we can safely say we have found our favorite Cubano in Miami (and probably the US) at Sanguich (various locations in Miami, we have visited the Calle Ocho location multiple times).

Sanguich’s menu – true to name – includes only selected classic sandwiches. All are on perfectly crusty Cuban bread, with a soft interior. Along with the Cubano ($13.49) you can get a medianoche ($11.59), which is similar to a Cubano but on sweeter bread, or a pan con bistec ($14.59) topped with mojo rojo, Swiss cheese, and sous vide beef. All of the sandwiches are slight spins on classics, topped with unique sauces and only top-notch ingredients. The whole of each sandwich is definitely more than the sum of its parts, and they are truly memorable.

Of all of the options, our favorites all involve the amazing slow roasted pork! This special ingredient completely makes the Cubano (seen above), and you can also just get a roast pork sandwich with mojo onions and garlic-cilantro aioli (L’s favorite, $11.99). While the menu is primarily sandwiches, you can also get milkshakes (batidos), including the unique trigo flavor, made with condensed milk and puffed wheat, apparently a Cuban classic. Of course, there is also made-to-order cafecito on offer.

The restaurant itself is tiny, so expect to wait for your sandwich (probably outside), and there is always a danger of them selling out. Whenever you visit (last time we went was a Sunday at 4 PM), there will likely be a bit of a line, and you will have to wait to receive your order, even if you are picking up. We usually just get our sandwiches to go, and once even brought them to the beach – highly recommend the lighthouse at Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park – as a picnic lunch spot. The next time you are in Miami, be sure to make a beeline for Sanguich for the best Cubano of your life!

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April 22, 2024 · 9:36 AM

Finally visiting Heladería Coppelia in Havana

I wrote about the famous, historical Heladería Coppelia ice cream parlor in Havana, Cuba, over 15 years ago, not long after this blog started! I initially was drawn to Coppelia by its iconic and distinctive architectural structure, and was further interested when learning about the multiple currencies at play, and plethora of flavors available. Finally, this year, we were able to visit Cuba – and Coppelia.

The architecture of this “cathedral of ice cream” is truly something you have to see to believe. Just imagine that a concrete UFO landed in a Havana park, taking up a block of prime Vedado neighborhood real estate. We walked around the building several times just to take in all of its angles. Though the landmark 1966 Mario Girona architecture of Coppelia is unchanged since I wrote in 2008, there have been some other significant shifts. Coppelia used to have 2 separate lines for the country’s 2 separate currencies (CUC and CUP). However, Cuba eliminated the CUC, which was pegged to the US dollar, in 2020.

The crowds, too, seem to have gone from Coppelia. Cuba is currently in the midst of an economic crisis, which was apparent during our visit in frequent supply and energy shortages throughout the island, among other issues. This situation manifested itself in Coppelia only having 2 flavors available when we visited: guava and coconut (though it seems that a limited amount of flavors was standard situation for a while), and no lines. There were a few tourists around when we ordered, but locals were the vast majority of patrons.

The first day in Cuba we attempted to visit Coppelia, but it was closed for some kind of special event. Fortunately, it was open the second time we stopped by. Customers can order ice cream from two floors of table seating or at counters spread throughout the gargantuan complex. We climbed a circular staircase and sat on the second floor, admiring the view and the colorful Mid-Century Modern glass and wood dividers (slightly marred by ugly computer-generated signs). We placed our order directly with a roving, uniformed waiter at out table, and there was plenty of room at the counters. We each ordered a jimagua (two scoops) one of each flavor, brought to us promptly in orange plastic dishes. The total cost for 2 people was only 36 Cuban pesos, or roughly 14 US cents. It felt wrong to enjoy a dessert as such a low price.

The ice cream was good, but the experience was the real draw. Coppelia is a real part of almost 60 years of Cuban history, and one of the few places where people from all walks of life can still enjoy a treat together. An ETW Bucket List food location checked off!

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